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Lila (10 Truths About Raising a Rescue Dog)

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog Trainingmtest on May 22nd, 2013

by Kimberly Wang

Fostering and adopting dogs is not for the faint of heart.  (Indeed, raising puppies and young dogs of any kindcan be a bear.)

It can be a challenging journey full of hysterical fits (mostly the dogs’), sleepless nights and piles of hole-y socks and chewed book spines. Then again, there are those pooches who, when guided by skilled humans, take to their new homes, mostly without incident, causing little trouble and settling in like sweet, babes. (We’re talking about you Miss Fern.)

Alas, I can’t say that I’ve ever adopted nor fostered a critter like that.  My dogs have always come with issues and special needs, but what’s life without some messiness?  And to counterbalance the messiness, there isbelief.

I’ve always felt that creating a strong, loving and reliable bond with a dog (especially one who has encountered difficulty in the early stages of development) requires belief.  Belief and faith in one’s dog, and belief in one’s ability to deal with the complexities of another living, breathing creature.

It also takes STAMINA.  And oh so much PATIENCE.

I figure it’s useful to work on cultivating these qualities whenever possible, and when the rewards are this great, it seems obvious why fostering and adopting is such a beautiful way to remind oneself that life is full of ways to connect with a deeper purpose.  We only need to remain open to the possibilities…

And that brings me to Lila, our Foster Doggie (still seeking a great forever home). Along with big brother Theodore, Miss Lila (named after the painter Lilla Cabot Perry) has been knocking around our place for the entirety of the winter, and it is not an exaggeration to say that there’s rarely a dull moment with this one year old, Black and Tan Coonhound/Plothound Mix in the house.

I’d forgotten what a puppy spaz attack looks like. It’s been 8 years since Theo blessed me with his version. (More about his rescue story HERE.)  And, well, let’s just say that a number of not entirely flattering nicknames have come about after watching Lila tear around the house like the cartoon version of a Tasmanian Devil.

When I look back on the greatest challenges of working with Theodore fresh out of the shelter, I’d say the most trying obstacles were his extreme separation anxiety and the sheer amount of activity he required in order to stay calm.

Lila, on the other hand, has little separation anxiety but arrived with tremendous sensitivity and fear regarding anything loud or unfamiliar.  Combine the two (which pretty much occurs on every single block of New York City) and poor Lila just wanted to run for the hills.  She was also incredibly difficult to housebreak, and it didn’t help that we later discovered that she had a raging bladder infection that went undetected by the shelter for what the vet assumes was a very long time.

None of this was surprising considering that she essentially spent the first year of her life in a shelter, where a dog run was her only consistent ‘home’.  And it is worth noting that she too, is a dog that requires a great deal of exercise.

What pleases me to no end, however, is observing how powerful the most basic techniques can be when working with a new dog: Structure + Exercise + Clear Direction + Consistency are a most magical combination.  I’m happy to report that after three months out of the shelter she has no less than fifteen commands in her repertoire and has made tremendous strides overall.

What Lila needed most was someone she could trust. And with dogs, trust is built through clear communication and positive interactions.  When we first brought her home, I didn’t try to pet her or hug her.  I simply worked with her on the basics: Sit, Down, Come, Stay, Heel, Watch, Leave It, Place, Touch.  The more I required of her, the more she relaxed.  Over time, we practiced ‘hugging’ and ‘petting’, but treats were always involved. Early on, Lila didn’t yet know that it could be comforting to be petted.

Now that Lila has me, as well as a small group of trusted humans and dogs she adores (including Theodore’s Other Favorite Human, and our close friends Kiersten, Sumin and their doggy, Fern, all of whom have generously contributed so much of their time, training skills and energy to this little one) she’s now coming into her own.

As Spring awaits, Lila is already beginning to blossom into a most wonderful dog.

Just weeks ago, the mere sound of a gate closing, or a truck rumbling by, or the sight of a man wearing a hooded coat would create paroxysms of fear, but now, Lila just walks on by. Several days before the big, East Coast snowstorm, the first attempt to apply booties to her paws looked something like a wrestling match with a shark.  But by the time Manhattan was hit with a foot of snow (and the paw burning chemicals that accompany winter storms) she happily offered up her paws for nail clipping (AMAZING!) and didn’t make a peep when the booties slid on. (How we love and rely upon counter conditioning!)

In the first month of her residency here, there were a number of nights that featured far less sleeping than waking hours, since housebreaking was a top priority.  Now, it is not unusual for Lila to doze until 11:30 am before she is ready to greet the day.  Most adorably, she now seeks to be petted on occasion and appreciates cuddles from those she knows, and she no longer automatically shies away from strangers.  Instead, she’ll sniff politely and allow herself to be touched if approached in a non-threatening manner.

And hallelujah, she’s a champ at the dog run!  We waited for well over a month before introducing her to the pleasures of communal dog play, and by then she was willing and able to respond to commands, even when other canines competed for her attention.

When I call out, ‘Lila, TOUCH!’ she’ll come running at a full clip, and touch her cold, wet nose to my palm, in exchange for a treat, and I immediately release her to resume play with her new friends.

Yes, the pride does swell, when I see how much this kid has grown.

So, in honor of Lila’s third full month out of the shelter, I’ve put together a list of the:

Top Ten Truths of Raising a Rescued Dog

Upon reading, this may appear to be a list of negatives, but it’s really a compilation of some of the things that make raising a dog unpredictable, and silly and absolutely ridiculous…all of which pale in comparison to the benefits and rewards.  It’s crucial to retain a sense of humor in the face of dog poop, temper tantrums (yours and the dog’s!) and sleep deprivation.  But armed with a lighthearted perspective plus the aforementioned BELIEF, there is nothing you and your dog can’t do.

Sidenote: I have no doubt that this list will sound very familiar to so many of you dog lovers out there who have raised pups and rescued dogs of your own!

1 ) Over the course of 2.5 hours, you can walk briskly from one side of Manhattan to the other, stopping for a vigorous game of ball along the way, and yet, once home, a noisy spaz attack ( while Theo’s Other Favorite Human is on an important conference call ) is inevitable.

2 ) The best toys are rarely the ones contained within the doggie toy bag.  No squeaky, bouncy, chewy, fluffy toy can compete with the clothes hamper or the dresser drawers, the contents of which hold the most intriguing and delicate playthings.  The doggie toy bag, too, when gleefully ripped to shreds, provides a delightful diversion.  For a minute. Maybe two.

3 ) Corollary to #2: Your dog-proofing is never as inviolable as you think it is.

4 ) Even though she is physically tethered to you, a not-yet-housebroken-dog will pee indoors, on your newly cleaned wood floor when you are least equipped to address the issue, ie. when YOU need to pee, (and in fact, are in the process of using the bathroom) and yet you took her out for a bathroom break moments before.

5 ) The sight of mounted policemen clopping down 7th Avenue upon their imposing steeds requires an immediate response from the foster dog who has never seen a horse before, which, from her perspective, goes something like this: Freeze in place. Don’t move a muscle. Inhale rapidly. Take treats voraciously while horses pass.  Marvel at how Big Brother Theodore doesn’t seem phased at all. (More about NYPD’s Mounted Policemen at our blog HERE.)

6 ) Since walks cannot be taken without ample treats/treat dispensation, your nice winter coat will sport doggie treat and slobber stains. And lots of them. There is nothing you can do about it but soldier on, and look forward to the day when dressing to look sharp (which will correspond with needing less treats on walks) trumps dressing for practicality.

7 ) Corollary to #6: Your footwear will also be overwhelmingly practical. Which is to say, not so much attractive yet comfortable and warm for those 1-2 hour walks/play sessions designed to wear out the foster dog.

8 ) You will be tired.  A lot of the time. Because an untrained dog will make you tired.  And sometimes VERY CRANKY.

9 ) You will have the ambition to be as productive in other aspects of your life (not including dog training) as you were before the foster dog came along. You will soon come to understand that, until life normalizes once again, the foster doggie has another plan in store.

But best of all:

10 ) If it is your mission to raise a well adjusted, well behaved companion, and you are willing to put your heart and soul into the endeavor, then you too will evolve.  You’ll grow more patient, more compassionate, and certainly more skilled in clear communication with dogs.

And yet, there is one unavoidable truth about raising a rescued dog that cannot be ignored and is truly a negative.

As I watch Lila evolve and come into her own, ever confident, her quirky, lovely, spunky, personality shining through, I am reminded that there are so many dogs like her in the shelters.  They are dogs with tremendous potential who have been adopted out to people unwilling or ill equipped to care for them, and then, sadly, returned multiple times (as Lila was).  They are misunderstood, negatively and yet erroneously labeled to their detriment, lonely, bursting with love to give, and longing for a safe, secure, home and their very own adoring humans.

It is beyond heartbreaking.

We dream of the day when we can strike that truth from our list…

For more information about adopting Lila, feel free to email me at: eardogproductions@gmail.com. We’re sorry, but only experienced dog owners will be considered.

This article was originally published on the City Dog, Country Dog blog and is reposted here, in full, with the permission of the author.

Why I Rescued My Dog Finn

Filed under: Ages & Stages,Dog Behaviormtest on May 20th, 2013

By: Rebecca Braglio

When I first rescued my dog Finn, I had zero history on him. He was found wandering the streets of North Philadelphia. He was a pretty severe neglect case, and although I didn’t really know what I was taking on, I took him in as a foster dog.

Our first month together was pretty blissful – except for one thing. He wouldn’t let me groom him. Whenever I came near his face (he has terrible tearstains) with a washcloth, comb or scissors, he went ballistic. I mean, exorcist ballistic. He growled. He snapped at my face. He ran under the bed and hid.

I knew I was in over my head. So, I hired a vet tech to come to my house to groom his face and clip his nails.

It took her 2 hours just to clip his nails. And that was with a muzzle on.

I then spoke with my vet, who recommended that I have Finn sedated for grooming. She said it was a very stressful event for him – clearly he had a traumatic experience with grooming and being handled. In her opinion, at the moment he was beyond any behavioral training. If he were sedated, it would be easier on everyone involved. But, that’s kind of pricey.

I decided that I could get it done on my own. After all, Finn loves me. He greets me when I come home with play bows and tail wags. He loves to cuddle on my lap.

And then one day, he bit me. Badly.

I was trying to wipe his tearstains with a washcloth. He was hollering big time, but I kept at it, which was my mistake. He managed to get in a sucker-punch and clamped down on my hand.

Thankfully, Finn only has 4 teeth (he had 15 pulled because they were so rotted). But it only takes one to break skin – which he did. He also managed to bruise the bone in my hand. Finn’s a little guy – only 7 lbs – but there is some serious power in that jaw. He’s quick like a professional boxer in the ring. It’s been about a month since he bit me, and my hand still hurts.

But now I have even a bigger problem – he’s starting to extend this aggression to other situations besides grooming. All I keep thinking is that now, Finn is a liability. I don’t trust him. I can’t trust him.

I’m not giving up on him. I can’t. When I adopted him, I made a promise to him that he would never go back to the shelter or end up back in the streets. I think we all know what would happen to Finn if he went back to the shelter.

But this is a new experience for me. I’ve never had an aggressive dog – and I’m finding it a bit heart breaking. It saddens me that he gets so stressed out that he bites. I wonder what on earth happened to him that he is so petrified of being touched. I’m grateful that he at least growls before resorting to biting.

But, I’m worried that he’s going to bite someone and I’ll have to put him down. I ‘m worried I won’t be able to get this under control.

I’ve made some adjustments already – he’s no longer allowed up on furniture and is sleeping in his own little bed now. We are working with a trainer who specializes in neglected dogs and aggression. He is on some supplements to help out with his other health issues and his overall anxiety. He is also being closely followed by his vet. There’s been some progress, but we have a very long road ahead of us.

This article originally appeared on Pet360.com

Do you have or have you ever had an aggressive dog? How have you managed?

Making Sense of Dogs

Filed under: Dog Behaviormtest on March 25th, 2013

Author Kathy Santo shares her secrets to dog training in her book, Dog Sense.

Watch her video on Pet360.com to get her tips!

Career Ideas for Dog Lovers

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog Newsmtest on March 19th, 2013

by Carol Bryant

Some of us consider our dogs our kids, others our companion, some are best friends, and many of us say “all of the above” when asked how we feel about our dogs.

How cool would it be to have a career working with animals in some capacity?

With the economic recession forcing many out of their comfort zone and often into unfamiliar territory, if you’ve ever considered a career with animals in some capacity, why not the present?

Years ago, a search engine result of “careers with animals” would have merited such admiral professions as veterinarian, groomer, veterinary technician, trainer, or dog handler. Today, those results still surface but so do a new host of careers, all involving dogs in some capacity.

As you peruse this list, consider the educational implications, possible initial start-up costs, and if you have the time to commit. If any of these pique your interest, an initial first step can be asking someone currently in the industry if you can talk to them and/or visit their place of business.

Here are some careers in the dog world that have surfaced (and some have been around a long time, but you may not have considered them):

  • Dog walker
  • Manufacturer of pet supplies
  • Animal behaviorist
  • Veterinarian
  • Vet technician
  • Pet sitter
  • Website designer (in dog-related industries)
  • Pet photographer
  • Mobile groomer
  • Pet product manufacturer (i.e., handmade collars)
  • Marketing and PR for dog-related companies
  • Doggie daycare
  • Kennel/boarding – including “cage-free!”
  • Working in the dog show arena (judge, trainer, groomer, handler)
  • Animal control officer
  • Working in a pet supply store or at corporate headquarters
  • Pet writer or illustrator
  • Police and K-9 units
  • Selling dog-related items at pet shows and trade shows
  • Pet rescue and foster care
  • Animal volunteer
  • Breeder – only those who have a passion for this and are dedicated to breed standard and welfare of the dogs involved.
  • Guide dog trainer
  • Pet blogger

Got a career we didn’t list here? We’d love to hear about it. Any career has its ups and downs, rewards and downsides. However, with the proper research and a true calling beckoning you to a new path, anything’s possible.

Career Ideas for Dog Lovers originally appeared on Pet360.com

New Study Reveals Dogs Recognize Other Dogs

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog Newsmtest on February 20th, 2013

by Kerri Fivecoat-Campbell

A new study suggests that dogs can recognize other dogs based on just pictures, no matter the breed of the pictured dog. This may not seem so impressive until you consider that there are between 400-500 recognized breeds of dogs, as well as all of the mixed breeds.

According to an article published in Scientific American, an experiment used nine dogs to see if they could recognize their own kind among 6,000 pictures. Half of the pictures were of various dog breeds, including mixed breed dogs, and for comparison, the other half was a mixture of 40 different “non-dog species.”

The dogs would sit in a waiting area and were trained to move forward when a pair of images appeared on the separate computer screens. The dogs would then place their paw on a table of their choice in front of one of the two computers. If they chose a dog’s image, they were given a treat. If they chose the other species, they returned to the waiting area empty pawed.

The study was based on two previous studies, both done with the hypothesis that dogs can recognize humans and their facial expressions. Over 15,000 years of domestication has given them that ability.

Researchers also knew that dogs use facial expressions, not just body stance and tail position, to communicate with each other.

The first study was completed in 2010 by the Department of Biological Sciences at the University of Lincoln. The second study was completed by the faculty at the school of Veterinary Medicine at the University of Helsinki in 2012.

However, those studies used only 24 photos in each category (dogs/non-dogs) for dogs to compare. Dominique Autier-Dérian from LEEC and National Veterinary School in Lyon, France believed the scope of the study was not large enough and put together the study involving the 6,000 pictures.

What did they conclude?

The study came to the same conclusion as the two previous smaller studies. Dogs do have the ability to recognize one another based only on images, absent of other senses, and no matter the breed, size, hair, or any other characteristic of another domestic dog.

The researchers wrote, “The fact that dogs are able to recognise their own species visually and that they have great olfactory discriminative capacities insures that social behavior and mating between highly morphologically different breeds is still potentially possible and therefore that, although humans have stretched Canis familiaris to its morphological limits, its biological entity has been preserved.”

New Study Reveals Dogs Recognize Other Dogs was originally published on Pet360.com

Puppy Training Tips From 5 Celebrity Pet Training Experts

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog Trainingmtest on February 11th, 2013

by Dr. Patrick Mahaney

Aah, the joys of puppyhood: sleepless nights, soiled carpets, chewed shoes and other seemingly endless challenges to one’s sanity. I’m eternally grateful that the powers having influence over canine trainability were gracious with my dog, Cardiff, who has evolved into well behaved adult.

Of course, Cardiff did not train himself to acclimate to my imposed standards of appropriate conduct in a human run world. “Puppy Cardiff” and I attended months of clicker training classes and we currently engage in ongoing positive reinforcement exercises. He and millions of other domesticated canines require consistent discipline to maintain composure in high and low stimulus environments.

Many of my clients seek advice on addressing canine and feline behavior problems (did you catch me on season two of Animal Planet’s My Cat From Hell, featuring “Stella” and “Polly”?), so I integrate western and eastern veterinary perspectives to explore potential underlying medical causes and recommend a holistic blend of treatment. Despite my experience, I don’t market myself as a behaviorist and I feel like a fledgling in the vast realm of experts who have undertaken companion animal training as their profession.

Therefore, to provide my petMD readers with a variety of perspectives, I sought advice from my circle of renowned pet trainers on the best means of positively shaping the behavior of impressionable pooches.

Nikki Moustaki

Nikki Moustaki is an award winning freelance writer, dog and bird trainer, pet industry expert, and founder of the philanthropic Pet Postcard Project.

“Clicker training using operant conditioning is an amazing way to get consistent and reliable behaviors from your puppy right from the start. Before considering a training method that uses corrections, which is not fun for the dog or the human, consider learning how to clicker train. It’s ‘going the extra mile,’ but wouldn’t your dog do that for you?”

Darlene Arden

Darlene Arden, CABC, is a speaker and multi-published author of books on both canine and feline behavior, including the newly released, The Compete Cat’s Meow.

“Instead of a cervical (neck) collar, use a chest harness to prevent any pressure on your puppy’s trachea (windpipe).”

I wholeheartedly agree with Arden and greatly appreciate her goals for promoting safe training from the perspective of health. Besides the potential for harm to the trachea, there is also the potential for the esophagus, blood and lymphatic vessels, vertebrae, intervertebral discs, facets (small joints connecting the vertebrae), spinal cord, and muscles of the neck to be adversely affected by abrupt leash tugs on a cervical collar.

Andrea Arden

There is more than one Arden in the pet expert realm; Andrea Arden is a multi-certified dog trainer, author of Barron’s Dog Training Bible, and a familiar presence on Animal Planet shows, including Dogs 101.

“Invest in 5-10 durable, hollow, rubber toys that can be filled with your dog’s normal meals and special treats. These sorts of enrichment toys provide a much needed outlet for some of your pup’s mental and physical energy and will keep your puppy happily occupied ‘hunting’ for its food. This helps prevent an endless list of unwanted behaviors, such as inappropriate chewing and excessive barking.”

Laura Nativo

Laura Nativo starred in CBS’s Greatest American Dog, hosted the Game Show Network’s Dog Park Superstars, serves as creative director of Petsami, is a certified APDT dog trainer, and accompanies me on vigorous “business hikes” with our dogs (we are “so LA”).

“As soon as your veterinarian gives you the go-ahead, introduce your puppy to as many new environments, people, and other pets as possible. Many common behavioral issues like excessive barking, resource guarding, and fear and leash aggression stem from missed opportunities for puppy socialization. Puppies that are well-socialized and trained in a variety of settings have the best chance of growing into happy, confident and well-mannered adults. Make it a priority to socialize your dog every day, whether on a walk, hike, at the dog park, the local coffee shop, or in a puppy kindergarten class! Your dog will love it, and so will you!”

Greg Kleva

As the authoritative opinions of women seemingly dominate the animal-care fields, I’m compelled to share tips from “one of the guys.” Greg Kleva is the host of It’s A Dog’s Life on the Martha Stewart Radio Blog, a Pet Travel Safety Ambassador for Toyota’s Pet Expert Team (P.E.T.), and a Grand Master Trainer forBark Busters (NJ).

“Reduce your puppy’s boredom by providing plenty of mental stimulation. Simple training exercises and education is very tiring for a puppy’s brain. Make games out of training … keep session short and light, but test your puppy to think, think, think. Try ‘Follow the Leader’ exercises (to reinforce following/walking/heel), ‘Hide-n-Seek’ (to reinforce coming when called), and ‘Sit/Stay’ at feeding time. Be consistent, calm, and never use physical means to correct your dog.”

A big thank you to all of my pet training pals for sharing their informative tips on the emotionally challenging, yet entirely worthwhile undertaking of puppy training.

Puppy Training Tips From 5 Celebrity Pet Training Experts was originally published on PetMD.com

Calming Signals in Dogs and How We Can Use Them

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog Trainingmtest on January 23rd, 2013

by Mary Majchrowski

dog-licking-14202499 calmingWe all know that dogs can’t talk (whether or not we care to admit it is another thing altogether!).  What they do rely on is body language — lots and lots of body language.

While we might approach a stranger and say, “Hey, I’m new here. It’s nice to meet you,” a dog might walk up to another dog in an arc with a slow, circular wagging tail and its ears back and drop into a butt-up, front down stretch. They are both ways to express “I’m friendly and mean no harm.”

What are Dog Calming Signals?

Calming signals are just what they sound like. They are behaviors offered by a dog in an attempt to keep a situation calm. Dog’s calming signals can be both offered and returned. We can help our dogs feel comfortable by learning what their calming signals are and respecting them, and even by responding in kind, repeating their gesture as best we can (tail wagging obviously excluded).

It is essential to understand that context is important. Think of how a person telling another “you fool!” can be issued as an insult or an expression of teasing affection. Context is important, regardless of species. For example, ears held back on a dog’s head can be many things: a calming signal, a sign of fear, or even just the nature of the breed.

You may or may not notice calming signals with your own dog. Unless you recently adopted your dog or have a new puppy, chances are your relationship is fairly established. Your dog may not feel the need to offer these signals on a regular or frequent basis.

Unfortunately we can also extinguish calming signals in our pets, even without intention. If a dog offers calming signals that are repeatedly ignored or corrected, eventually they may stop trying. Think about people — if your partner brought you flowers after a fight and you always responded with snide comments about wasting money or stinking up the house, chances are your partner would stop buying flowers— at least for you! Since we are frequently our dog’s entire world, our response (or lack thereof) to their behavior is critically important.

Calming signals may include:

  • “Look aways” (turning the head to the side, away from the other dog or person)
  • Yawning
  • Sniffing (becoming very interested in not much of anything)
  • Paw raises (raising one of the front paws off the ground)
  • Shake offs (can be a slight shake off or entire body, as if wet)
  • Scratching (like they are itchy – a sudden case of “fleas”)
  • Blinking
  • Lip licking (or nose licking)
  • Tongue flicks
  • Moving in an arc (approaching or leaving in a semi-circle, not a direct path)
  • Sitting or lying down
  • Stretching (particularly into a play bow position, though not quite the same behavior)
  • Making a “soft face” – ears back, soft eyes, etc.

Can I Use Calming Signals with Dogs?

There are a few signals that you may want to try with your dog.* They can help a dog feel more comfortable, and may even be offered back to you. Blinking is pretty universal between species — go for slow, deliberate blinks (not fast fluttering). Lip licking is also simple to duplicate. Again, make it slow and obvious. You can actually lick your lips or even just stick your tongue out a few times. “Look aways” involve turning your head to either side, away from the dog. You may then look back, without making eye contact, then look away again. A paw lift is a little more difficult (largely since we don’t have paws and walk on two legs, not four). But if you are feeling daring you can try it with one arm, holding it as if you were imitating a hurt paw.

You may have figured out now how yawning can be contagious. Offered as a calming signal between dogs, or even from dog to human (and human to dog), a yawn is much more than feeling sleepy. It’s a chance to say “chill out ─ relax” or “I’m a little worried, don’t hurt me.” Body language means a lot to a dog, and understanding calming signals will help you interpret just what they are trying to tell you.

*Calming signals do not make it safe to approach an aggressive dog. When in doubt, keep your distance. If your dog behaves aggressively, seek the assistance of a licensed veterinary behaviorist.

Calming Signals in Dogs and How We Can Use Them was originally published on Pet360.com.

How to Clean Pet Urine and Neutralize Odor

Filed under: Ages & Stages,Dog Behavior,Dog TrainingDoggySpace on July 23rd, 2010

Whether your pet has a problem with indoor accidents or is simply trying to mark his territory, cleaning up pet urine is imperative to preventing recurrences. Your pet enjoys a particularly strong sense of smell and can easily identify areas where it has urinated in the past. If you have other pets, the smell of the urine may cause them to urinate in the same spot – even if they typically only urinate outdoors. Thus, when cleaning up pet stains, you must clean the stain thoroughly enough to neutralize the smell to both humans and animals.

Step One: Blot Away the Urine Stain

As soon as your pet urinates on the floor, blot up as much of the stain as you can with a towel or dishcloth. Terrycloth is perfect for this job. Your goal is to clean away as much of the urine as possible before it has an opportunity to soak into your carpet’s padding and dry there.

After you’ve soaked up as much of the urine as you can with a towel, use a thin, absorbent material, such as a paper towel or napkin, to absorb any remaining pet urine. Place the paper towel or napkin over the stain and press down as hard as you can. You can even stand on the spot to ensure that you’re applying adequate pressure. Do not stop blotting until the spot appears completely dry.

Step Two: Dilute the Remaining Pet Urine

Pour club soda liberally over the pet urine stain, giving it a few seconds to soak in. Club soda dilutes pet urine both beneath your carpet and on the carpet’s surface, making it less likely to give off a noticeable smell. While club soda is ideal for this, you can also use plain water or equal parts water and white vinegar.

After the club soda has a chance to soak into the carpet, blot it away using towels and paper towels in the exact same manner that you cleaned up the initial pet stain.

Step Three: Neutralize Pet Urine Smells

Once you’ve cleaned up the pet stain and diluted the remaining urine within your carpet, you can further combat the smell using baking soda. Pour baking soda over the spot where your pet’s accident occurred. Press the baking soda into the carpet using even pressure. This can be done by stepping on the pile of baking soda several times or placing a heavy object over the spot. Let the baking soda sit on the pet stain for at least one hour before vacuuming it away. The baking soda will pull any moisture you may have missed out of the carpet while also combating the unpleasant odor of pet urine.

Step Four: De-grease the Pet Stain

Even if you begin cleaning your pet’s urine stain as soon as the accident occurs, the ammonia in an animal’s urine gives it a greasy texture that allows it to rapidly adhere to fabrics such as carpeting. The end result is that neutralizing the urine may not remove the stain. Standard carpet cleaning sprays may also be ineffective at preventing a permanent pet urine stain on your carpet. Household degreasers, however, are perfect for this job.

Spray a household degreasing product, such as Greased Lightning, directly onto the pet stain. Use a warm, wet cloth to work the degreaser into the stain, wiping vigorously. Keep a bowl of water next to you throughout the process since you’ll want to rinse the cloth out frequently. If you have concerns about degreaser staining your carpet, test it out on an out of the way area of carpeting before applying it to the pet urine stain.

Step Five: Prevent the Smell of Pet Urine

While club soda and baking soda work wonders for neutralizing pet urine odor, you can opt for additional odor prevention by purchasing one of the many specialty products available for neutralizing the smell of pet urine on carpets. Call your veterinarian for a recommendation before making a purchase, as some products work better than others.

The best cure for pet urine stains is prevention. Consider installing a doggie door or taking your dog for more frequent walks if indoor urination becomes a problem. If you have a cat that urinates on the carpet, clean its litter box more frequently. Your cat’s definition of a full litter box and yours may vary! You can also provide your cat with more than one litter box to encourage it to use the litter box rather than your carpet. Should occasional accidents still occur, however, prompt cleanup ensures that your carpet will remain pristine and pet urine odors don’t become a problem.

Photo by jaimieo

5 Ways to Stop Separation Anxiety

Filed under: Dog BehaviorDoggySpace on July 20th, 2010

Does your dog exhibit bad behavior when you leave the house? Do you come home to find that your dog has ripped up all the toilet paper or chewed up your favorite pair of shoes? Does your dog have accidents in the house only when you’re not there? Does he cry or howl and dig at doors in windows in an attempt to get out?

If you’ve noticed any of the above behavior, your dog may be suffering from separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is not a way to get back at you for leaving them. It is simply a panic response to being left alone. It can happen at any point during a dog’s life but tends to happen once a routine is broken. For instance if you’ve been working from home for the last 5 years and you’ve all of a sudden transitioned to an office job. Now your dog doesn’t understand why you are suddenly not available all day long and panics when you leave the house.

Separation anxiety can be severe and may need the help of a professional animal behaviorist. However, there are several things you can try on your own before you call for backup.

  1. When you leave the house, leave an item that smells like you with your dog. An old t-shirt works well. Just having your scent with him may be enough to calm your dog down while you are away.
  2. Keep your departures and arrivals from the house times of calm. Don’t make a big deal out of leaving or coming home. This can add to your dog’s anxiety level. Quietly leave the house and come home when you can.
  3. Establish a safety cue. Whenever you leave the house, do something that lets your dog know you’ll be back. You can leave the radio on or the TV on for him, or give him a special toy. Practice this with your dog by doing this action and then only leaving for a little bit. Gradually increase the time you are gone and soon your dog will associate this action with the fact that you will be back soon.
  4. Give your dog something to do. Toys like kongs are great for keeping your dog occupied while you are away. It allows them to focus on something other than the fact that they are missing you.
  5. Desensitize your dog to your comings and goings. There’s probably a good chance that your dog has certain triggers that let him know you are leaving. This may be getting your car keys out or putting on your coat. Do these things around him when you don’t leave the house. Jingle your car keys and then go sit on the couch. Put your coat on and watch TV. Pretty soon your dog will learn to not associate these behaviors as triggers for you leaving.

Separation anxiety can be a serious problem for some dog owners, but with a little work and patience, you should be able to calm your dog and alleviate his anxiety when you leave.

Photo by *christopher*

Is Your Dog’s Food Causing Agression?

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog LifeDoggySpace on May 26th, 2010

Ever wonder why your dog has become more aggressive after eating a piece of meat or high protein dog food? While protein is important for dogs, studies show that some dogs are fed too much protein, causing them to become aggressive. Unless your dog is under a year old, pregnant, nursing, or an actively working dog such as a herding, sled, or hunting dog, a high protein diet is unnecessary and can cause dominance and territorial aggression. While studies have shown that puppies under a year old need a diet with 28% protein content and working dogs require a diet with a protein content of 32%, chances are your dog needs less.

Medical studies have determined that feeding dogs lower protein diets can help curb both dominance and territorial aggression problems. In some studies, besides switching to a lower protein diet, tryptophan was given as a supplement. Additives and fillers have also been shown to have a negative impact on dog aggression. If your dog is displaying aggression consider changing your dog to a lower protein diet, many veterinarians recommend about 18% protein, and choosing premium dog foods with little or no additives and fillers.

Photo credit Brian Ford

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