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How to Clean Pet Urine and Neutralize Odor

Filed under: Ages & Stages,Dog Behavior,Dog Training — DoggySpace on July 23rd, 2010

Whether your pet has a problem with indoor accidents or is simply trying to mark his territory, cleaning up pet urine is imperative to preventing recurrences. Your pet enjoys a particularly strong sense of smell and can easily identify areas where it has urinated in the past. If you have other pets, the smell of the urine may cause them to urinate in the same spot – even if they typically only urinate outdoors. Thus, when cleaning up pet stains, you must clean the stain thoroughly enough to neutralize the smell to both humans and animals.

Step One: Blot Away the Urine Stain

As soon as your pet urinates on the floor, blot up as much of the stain as you can with a towel or dishcloth. Terrycloth is perfect for this job. Your goal is to clean away as much of the urine as possible before it has an opportunity to soak into your carpet’s padding and dry there.

After you’ve soaked up as much of the urine as you can with a towel, use a thin, absorbent material, such as a paper towel or napkin, to absorb any remaining pet urine. Place the paper towel or napkin over the stain and press down as hard as you can. You can even stand on the spot to ensure that you’re applying adequate pressure. Do not stop blotting until the spot appears completely dry.

Step Two: Dilute the Remaining Pet Urine

Pour club soda liberally over the pet urine stain, giving it a few seconds to soak in. Club soda dilutes pet urine both beneath your carpet and on the carpet’s surface, making it less likely to give off a noticeable smell. While club soda is ideal for this, you can also use plain water or equal parts water and white vinegar.

After the club soda has a chance to soak into the carpet, blot it away using towels and paper towels in the exact same manner that you cleaned up the initial pet stain.

Step Three: Neutralize Pet Urine Smells

Once you’ve cleaned up the pet stain and diluted the remaining urine within your carpet, you can further combat the smell using baking soda. Pour baking soda over the spot where your pet’s accident occurred. Press the baking soda into the carpet using even pressure. This can be done by stepping on the pile of baking soda several times or placing a heavy object over the spot. Let the baking soda sit on the pet stain for at least one hour before vacuuming it away. The baking soda will pull any moisture you may have missed out of the carpet while also combating the unpleasant odor of pet urine.

Step Four: De-grease the Pet Stain

Even if you begin cleaning your pet’s urine stain as soon as the accident occurs, the ammonia in an animal’s urine gives it a greasy texture that allows it to rapidly adhere to fabrics such as carpeting. The end result is that neutralizing the urine may not remove the stain. Standard carpet cleaning sprays may also be ineffective at preventing a permanent pet urine stain on your carpet. Household degreasers, however, are perfect for this job.

Spray a household degreasing product, such as Greased Lightning, directly onto the pet stain. Use a warm, wet cloth to work the degreaser into the stain, wiping vigorously. Keep a bowl of water next to you throughout the process since you’ll want to rinse the cloth out frequently. If you have concerns about degreaser staining your carpet, test it out on an out of the way area of carpeting before applying it to the pet urine stain.

Step Five: Prevent the Smell of Pet Urine

While club soda and baking soda work wonders for neutralizing pet urine odor, you can opt for additional odor prevention by purchasing one of the many specialty products available for neutralizing the smell of pet urine on carpets. Call your veterinarian for a recommendation before making a purchase, as some products work better than others.

The best cure for pet urine stains is prevention. Consider installing a doggie door or taking your dog for more frequent walks if indoor urination becomes a problem. If you have a cat that urinates on the carpet, clean its litter box more frequently. Your cat’s definition of a full litter box and yours may vary! You can also provide your cat with more than one litter box to encourage it to use the litter box rather than your carpet. Should occasional accidents still occur, however, prompt cleanup ensures that your carpet will remain pristine and pet urine odors don’t become a problem.

Photo by jaimieo

Puppy Socialization

Filed under: Ages & Stages,Dog Life,Dog Training — Chantee Hale on June 10th, 2010

Puppy socialization is the foundation for a lifetime of good dog behavior. A properly socialized puppy will respond to new situations, people, and environments without the fear and aggression that often develops in dogs that are under emotional stress. While the most important period in your puppy’s socialization occurs between 8 and 12 weeks, when the puppy’s mind is going through a fear imprinting stage, good socialization should not end after 12 weeks.

In order to properly socialize your puppy you must make sure to expose him or her to as many healthy new environments and people as you can. Since the point of exposing your puppy is to teach him or her how to handle and react to potentially stressful situations, it is important that you remain in control of the situation, as well as your own reactions and emotions. Even young puppies can sense your emotional responses to stimuli and, like human infants, will react according to the impressions they get from you. Happily greeting strangers as you take your dog for walks, or settling in comfortably with a large group of human friends show your dog how he or she should respond to these new situations as well.

Because of health concerns it may not be safe to socialize your dog through visits to the dog park, or places where other animal’s poop is likely to be found. Instead, substitute controlled play dates with other pups, training and socialization classes, and frequent walks for potentially health-effecting socialization. Taking your pup for frequent car rides and to visit the homes of friends will also help him or her to adapt easier to new environments.

Besides new environments it is essential to familiarize your dog with objects he or she may perceive as threatening or strange. These things may include tall men, hats, umbrellas, loud noises, children, and wheelchairs. Having the individuals possessing potentially frightening characteristics or objects interact positively with your dog, even offering them treats and affection, will help your dog come to love these strange characteristics.

As your puppy grows remember to encourage him or her to enjoy new things, and seek out new experiences and stimuli to expose him or her to. By taking the time to socialize your dog with intention and control you will ensure a happier outlook for your pet and minimize stress and aggressive reactions. Properly socialized puppies often turn into better behaved adult dogs, and will make your dog ownership a joy instead of a headache.

Photo credit manyfires

The Well Socialized Dog

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog Life,Dog Training — Chantee Hale on April 13th, 2010

Some dog experts say that a socializing your dog is just as important as how you feed and shelter him or her. But what does “dog socialization” and being a “well socialized” dog mean, anyways?

Dog socializing is a form of training your dog. When you socialize your dog you teach him or her how to react to external stimuli, from new places, large groups, or an unusual characteristic such as wheelchairs or mustaches on men. While socialization is extremely important during the first year of a puppy’s life, it in no way ends at 12 months of age, and good socialization tactics continue throughout your dog’s lifetime.

While socialization classes can be found, the best kind of socialization training is found in daily life. As you walk your dog, take him or her to the dog park, meet strange people or dogs while on a walk, or host a party, you are providing your dog with the best kind of socialization. But, for socialization to be good and your dog to become “well socialized” you must be in control of the situation, endeavoring to make sure that he or she enjoys the new experience and gets past any initial fearful reactions he or she has, and making sure that your own reactions to the situation show that your are in control, worry free, enjoying yourself, and you feel your pet is safe.

Poorly socialized dogs often react to stimuli by growling, cowering, trying to bite, or other fear-induced behaviors. Not only are these signs that your dog is frightened, but they can be difficult or embarrassing to deal with, or even cause harm. No matter what age your dog is intentional socialization should be as much a part of his or her daily routine as meals and taking walks.

Photo by lleugh

Curing Dog Aggression Through Socialization

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog Training — Chantee Hale on February 8th, 2010

Is your dog the type that barks at cars? Does he or she go running when a tall man enters a house, or growl at the mailman? These and other aggressive behaviors often stem from a lack of socialization.

Puppies who are heavily socialized are calmer, friendlier, and have an easier time handling new situations. But dog socialization doesn’t end at 12 months, or when your dog’s completed their first puppy training class. A lack of continual socialization can lead to your dog feeling anxious or frightened in new or unusual situations, and fear is a leading cause of aggression in dogs. If your dog is displaying unexplained aggressive behaviors, or is acting aggressively after a move or change in the social structure of the family, socialization may present a cure.

In order to socialize your dog you will want to pinpoint what he or she is afraid of, and target those areas. If people with glasses give your dog a scare invite some eyeglass sporting friends over. If possible, have them go without their eyeglasses until they have been introduced to the dog. Encouraging good play and treat-giving will help your dog overcome their anxiety and learn that these people are generous and fun to be with. If your dog barks at the mailman, try to introduce your dog to the mail deliverer. Walk your dog daily just so that you and your dog can great the mailman in a friendly manner as you pass each other’s paths.

For a dog suffering from under socialization, or a lapse in socialization, it is important to include him or her in every activity you do outside the home. Car rides, park days, long walks, visiting friends, and even shopping at dog friendly stores can all help expose and cure your dog from socialization related fear and aggression.

Dog Games for Smart Dogs

Filed under: Ages & Stages,Dog Life,Dog Training — Chantee Hale on January 18th, 2010

Having trouble keeping your smart hound occupied and out of the “dog house?” Trainers say that dogs that are occupied are less likely to engage in undesirable activity, like chewing on your shoes, and smart dogs tend to get bored easily. Here are some games you can play with your intelligent dog to keep him or her entertained.

Retrieving items is a great game for smart dogs that love to feel like they’re useful and part of something. Train your dog to recognize an item, from the remote to the car keys, and then ask them to “fetch” it. As they get used to the game you can even send them on the hunt for items stashed in a separate room.
Indoor or out and obstacle course is not only a great way to give a dog physical exercise but a mental workout as well. If you’re indoors you can create an obstacle course out of Pilates balls, chairs, tables, or anything sturdy enough for your dog to climb over, under, or around. Outside you can create larger courses with slides, stairs, and poles for them to weave under over and around.
Clean up is another handy game for dogs that like to have a job to do. Using a command like “Pick up” guide your dog through the steps of using his or her mouth to carry a toy back to its rightful place. Soon enough you’ll be able to keep them entertained and straightening the house with a simple command.
Ball and Cups are a great game to entertain dog’s minds. Place a ball underneath one of two, or even three, cups and shuffle them around. Let your dog sniff and determine which cup holds the ball. You can even train your dog to tap the proper cup with his or her paw to add to the fun.
Letting your dog play “messenger” by delivering presents or messages tucked in their collar can also be an easy and fun way to keep your dog entertained, while exercising his or her ability to “find” a family member.
For those moments when your dog needs entertainment but you can’t be by their side consider an interactive dog toy, like Nina Ottosson’s Zoo Active Toys, which not only entertain dogs but help develop their problem solving skills.

Puppy Training: The First Week

Filed under: Ages & Stages,Dog Training — Chantee Hale on January 14th, 2010

The first week a puppy is in its new home is the most important week of training. From crate and potty training to getting your new pet to stop chewing and whining the amount of training may seem overwhelming. While the desire to tackle one item of training at a time, or wait until everyone has adjusted to the new pet may be strong, a new puppy is most impressionable during its first week in its new home. Your new puppy will learn best during this time.

Using a crate is an important part of training your pet. He or she will need to spend a lot of time in their crate, and the sooner you show him or her that it’s a nice play to be the better. Make sure the puppy’s crate is just big enough to turn around it, so that they will not potty in it and so that they will feel safe. Be sure to put in comfortable padding and to reward your new dog with a treat for the time they spend in the crate.

Potty training is often a difficult task for an excitable puppy. Many trainers recommend restricting your dog to a small room and lining the floor with puppy pee pads or newspapers until they are housebroken. Whatever method you choose, make sure to take your dog out before and after meals, as soon as they get up from sleeping, and after they spend time alone or in their crate. Always walk a new puppy, encourage it to “potty” and praise it when it does so.

Whining, chewing, and jumping up are social behaviors you will want to tackle in the first week. If your new puppy misbehaves, do not punish it. It is still learning the rules and how it should act. Instead, re-direct it and praise him or her if it follows your redirection. For whining, refuse to acknowledge your dog, instead of coming to their call or scolding them. When you are ready to acknowledge you puppy, call him or her to you. If your dog is caught chewing something they should not, redirect them to a chew toy and praise them when they chew on it instead. Teaching your dog “down” when they try to jump up and not allowing your cute new puppy to jump excitedly will save you time and trouble as they grow to adults.

Don’t allow your puppy to do anything that will irritate you in the long run or as they grow to adulthood or you may confuse your new pet. Remember that your new puppy is learning the rules and try to be patient with him or her as they learn.

Puppy Potty Training Made Easy

Filed under: Ages & Stages,Dog Training — Chantee Hale on January 13th, 2010

While potty training a new puppy may seem like a chore you’d rather avoid but, when potty training is done correctly, it can be turned into an easy task. Here are some hints to help you with your new puppy’s potty training:

Create the Right Mindset:

For both yourself and your puppy this is an important step. In order for your new pet to learn quickly and come to feel safe and loved in his or her new home you will need to never, ever criticize your potty training puppy for his or her failure. Doing so will make them afraid, and will make it harder for them to learn. Instead of rubbing your puppy’s nose in his or her mistake, calmly tell your puppy “No,” clean up after your pet, and start again. When your puppy gets it right praise them, but never punish them for a potty accident when they are training.

Supervised the Deed:

You’ll need to keep an eye on your puppy all the time. If you have to work, make sure your puppy is in his or her crate, and has just enough room to turn around in so they aren’t tempted to potty. When you’re home keep a constant eye on them, watching for potty signals such as pacing or sniffing the floor. If they display these signs, calmly take them outside and walk them. It is important to walk your dog, not just send them outside. While you walk your puppy tell him or her repeatedly to “Potty” then praise him or her when they do. Walking your puppy can also help you train him or her to potty in the area you want them to.

Using a Crate:

Whether it’s watching your favorite TV show, playing a game with the kids, or taking a shower, any time you can’t watch your puppy 100% then its time for Fido to spend some time in the crate. A good crate will be just big enough for him or her to turn around in and should be outfitted with a blanket or pad and a toy. Don’t put food or water in the crate, and don’t be tempted to let Fido have “room to stretch” as this may cause them to potty in their crate. Before and after you let your puppy spend time in the crate take them out for a walk, so they can potty. Don’t let anything get in the way of this or they may have an accident. When you’re going to work and during the night are two times you will definitely want to crate your pet to prevent accidents.

Using the proper mindset, supervision, and crate techniques will make housebreaking will be a breeze. Remember to praise your pup for their success and let their failures pass.

Games for Kids to Play With Dogs

Filed under: Dog Life,Dog Training — Chantee Hale on January 12th, 2010

If you’re trying to get your new dog and your kids to socialize, games may be the perfect solution. Games are not only fun ways for your child and dog to interact but also help to train the dog to recognize your child as an authority. As the dog learns to take commands from your kid he or she will come to understand their placement in the family and can lessen incidents of aggression towards children.

One of the best games to play is Fetch. Fetch teaches your dog to obey commands given by your child. You may want to shadow their game, helping echo the command ‘fetch’ when your child throws something for your dog to retrieve. Make sure that your dog returns the toy or items to your child, and not you. As they learn to work together you will be able to step away from the game. Once the basics of ‘Fetch’ is learned it can be played so that your dog retrieves certain items, like a bone, keys, or the remote.

Obstacle courses can also be fun for your child and dog. Your child will enjoy the opportunity to ‘build’ a course out of things your dog can jump over, crawl through, or go around. Let the child use the ‘come’ command to encourage the dog to tackle the obstacle course. You may find it necessary for your child to aid the dog, by holding their collar as they tackle the course, so they know what is expected the first couple of times. If your child is too small to hold the dog’s collar without dragging your pet, then have them call come while you aid the dog in tackling the course.

Trick commands, like “Roll Over,” “Jump” and “Play Dead” are also great ways for your child to play with your dog. You will likely have to shadow your child, teaching them the appropriate way to speak and hand movements to make, until your dog and child both learn the rules of the game.

Dog Park Exits Made Easy

Filed under: Dog Life,Dog Training — Chantee Hale on January 10th, 2010

If leaving the dog park is a chore, you’ll want to try these easy-exit tricks:

At Home:

When you let your dog run and play, inside or out, practice calling him or her in the middle of their play. When they come to you reward them with praise and a treat. If your pet doesn’t come, calmly walk over and bring them to you, then reward them. Practice this until they get into the habit of stopping their play whenever you call. Make sure Fido doesn’t just grab his treat and run, but stays by your side for a minute or two. This will make it easier to get the leash on him when its time to leave the dog park.

Before You Go:

Plan ahead. Bring enough treats to reward your dog with, and also bring a favorite toy or extra special treat to reward your pooch with on your way home. Don’t let him or her get into the extra special treat until he or she is safely restrained in the car, and ready to go home, then give them praise and let them have their special toy or treat. This will help your dog look forward to going home almost as much as he or she looks forward to going out to play.

At The Dog Park:

While at the dog park watch your dog play. When your pet is having fun playing with his or her dog park pals call him or her over to you. You may find that you have to go get your dog. Don’t scold or shout at him or her if you do, just bring them over where you wanted them and give them a treat. After a couple rounds of “come” your dog will get the idea, and gladly come when he or she is called. You may find that you need to hold their collar while you give them their treat. If you make sure that your pet stays at your side for a minute or two, when it’s time to go you won’t be left holding the leash after your pet has woofed down his or her treat and run off on you.

Dog Training Collars

Filed under: Dog Training — Chantee Hale on December 24th, 2009

If you’re tired of fighting to train your stubborn hound and dog obedience class results have been less than desirable then dog training collars may be just the thing for you.

There are many different types of dog training collars. Some release a scent spray or an electric shock or high-pitched sound to deter dogs from barking. Others allow the dog’s owner to choose when to apply the stimulus. These remote training collars are very popular among dog owners, because they allow them to correct a dog’s actions from a distance, sometimes as much as 400 yards. The ability to correct a dog from a long distance can be especially helpful when you are at a dog park or in large outdoor area where your dog can run far and may be distracted from your verbal commands.

Some people believe that dog collars that apply a deterrent stimulus are inhumane, and if an owner overuses a deterrent or shock collars the dog can become nervous or skittish. When used correctly, though, they can actually benefit your dog giving you the ability to reign in a headstrong dog.

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