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Spring Essentials for Your Dog

Filed under: Dog Training,Products & Reviewsmtest on April 23rd, 2013

Spring in finally here, although it doesn’t feel that way in many states. Off and on, off and on – it often seems like a tease!

Regardless of the weather, our dogs are ready to run. It’s time to get stocked up on springtime gear to make sure your pup has plenty to do and is properly protected.

See what Pet360 has handpicked this year in their Spring Essentials category!

Learn Dog Training Basics!

Filed under: Dog Trainingmtest on April 23rd, 2013

petMDU – petMD University – offers a number of courses to help you become a better pet parent, and all the courses are free!

If you’d like to learn more about traning your dog, look no further than the Dog Training Basics course.

Here is where things get serious. You’ve gotten past the challenges of a snoopy, chewy puppy, she has learned her name by now and hopefully stopped whining at night. So now we start the lifelong process of training your pup. There’s a lot to cover – you may want to take notes!

petMD University Dog Training Basics Course Syllabus:

  • A Great Foundation (3 Credits)
  • Final Quiz: Dog Training Basics | Final Quiz

Enroll in the free course now!

Based on trusted information from real vets, you’ll score!

Become a Professional Dog Walker

Filed under: Dog Life,Dog Trainingmtest on March 5th, 2013

by Jessica Remitz

A secret dream of every dog owner is to be a dog walker (because, honestly, who wouldn’t want to spend their days taking their pup and his doggie friends on long walks?) but what does it take to make it in the business? And how do you get started? We’ve asked a Brooklyn-based walker to give us the scoop on what the life of a dog walker is really like.

Rachel Bowers, owner of Brooklyn Bark, a dog walking and pet sitting business, graduated college in 2007 and left school hoping to teach art in New York City. Unfortunately, the market for art teachers wasn’t very robust at the time and she found that freelancing didn’t provide enough financial stability. She began walking dogs for additional revenue and her business took off from there.

Bowers began building a client list by putting posters up around her neighborhood. As interest in Brooklyn Bark grew and she increased her staff (she now employs about 10 people to help care for clients and provide business support for the company), she began using the Internet to market her services in addition to community-based outreach.

Barking Up the Right Tree

While there are no qualifications or specific licenses needed to begin walking dogs professionally, Bowers knows how much work goes into caring for animals and their owners and has made it her company’s mission to provide the best care possible. Someone looking to make a little extra money without putting in the work, she said, reflects poorly on companies that pride themselves on professionalism.

“You’re asking people to trust you with one of their most beloved possession as well as keys to their home,” she said. “Do everything you can to earn their trust and maintain that trust every single day.”

Bowers works with local veterinarians, freelancers unions and Craigslist to bring on new hires and receives over 100 queries nearly every day from people looking to become a walker. These applicants are narrowed down to a handful of finalists who are interviewed by Bowers and invited into the field to shadow her at work. Potential walkers must have a college degree and a history working with animals in addition to an enthusiasm for the job and the ability to handle a variety of different animals with different personalities.

All Brooklyn Bark walkers are bonded and insured as well as pet CPR and first aid certified within three months of starting with the company. Bowers and her associates also give CPR and first aid certification classes to the public every four to six months. She recommends all beginning walkers become insured and work with their community to help other animals in addition to their clients.

“Don’t pick up a leash without being bonded and having insurance [and] as you grow, become a force for good in the animal world,” she said. “As you’re making a living from animals, give back and help other animals and their owners succeed.”

As with all businesses, challenges exist in the world of dog walking. The biggest one Bowers faced, giving everyone what they wanted when they wanted it, was overcome with an online scheduling portal and a GPS tracking system for associates to get their walking schedules on their phone and clients to schedule walks through the website and see exactly where their dogs are walked each day. It always helps to have a wiggly pup waiting for you during a stressful day, too.

“No matter how horrible things may be going, there is nothing as wonderful as opening a door to be greeted bye a tail wagging to tell you how much you are appreciated and loved,” she said.

To learn more about Brooklyn Bark or request a free consultation locally, click here.

This article was originally published on Pet360.com.

Puppy Training Tips From 5 Celebrity Pet Training Experts

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog Trainingmtest on February 11th, 2013

by Dr. Patrick Mahaney

Aah, the joys of puppyhood: sleepless nights, soiled carpets, chewed shoes and other seemingly endless challenges to one’s sanity. I’m eternally grateful that the powers having influence over canine trainability were gracious with my dog, Cardiff, who has evolved into well behaved adult.

Of course, Cardiff did not train himself to acclimate to my imposed standards of appropriate conduct in a human run world. “Puppy Cardiff” and I attended months of clicker training classes and we currently engage in ongoing positive reinforcement exercises. He and millions of other domesticated canines require consistent discipline to maintain composure in high and low stimulus environments.

Many of my clients seek advice on addressing canine and feline behavior problems (did you catch me on season two of Animal Planet’s My Cat From Hell, featuring “Stella” and “Polly”?), so I integrate western and eastern veterinary perspectives to explore potential underlying medical causes and recommend a holistic blend of treatment. Despite my experience, I don’t market myself as a behaviorist and I feel like a fledgling in the vast realm of experts who have undertaken companion animal training as their profession.

Therefore, to provide my petMD readers with a variety of perspectives, I sought advice from my circle of renowned pet trainers on the best means of positively shaping the behavior of impressionable pooches.

Nikki Moustaki

Nikki Moustaki is an award winning freelance writer, dog and bird trainer, pet industry expert, and founder of the philanthropic Pet Postcard Project.

“Clicker training using operant conditioning is an amazing way to get consistent and reliable behaviors from your puppy right from the start. Before considering a training method that uses corrections, which is not fun for the dog or the human, consider learning how to clicker train. It’s ‘going the extra mile,’ but wouldn’t your dog do that for you?”

Darlene Arden

Darlene Arden, CABC, is a speaker and multi-published author of books on both canine and feline behavior, including the newly released, The Compete Cat’s Meow.

“Instead of a cervical (neck) collar, use a chest harness to prevent any pressure on your puppy’s trachea (windpipe).”

I wholeheartedly agree with Arden and greatly appreciate her goals for promoting safe training from the perspective of health. Besides the potential for harm to the trachea, there is also the potential for the esophagus, blood and lymphatic vessels, vertebrae, intervertebral discs, facets (small joints connecting the vertebrae), spinal cord, and muscles of the neck to be adversely affected by abrupt leash tugs on a cervical collar.

Andrea Arden

There is more than one Arden in the pet expert realm; Andrea Arden is a multi-certified dog trainer, author of Barron’s Dog Training Bible, and a familiar presence on Animal Planet shows, including Dogs 101.

“Invest in 5-10 durable, hollow, rubber toys that can be filled with your dog’s normal meals and special treats. These sorts of enrichment toys provide a much needed outlet for some of your pup’s mental and physical energy and will keep your puppy happily occupied ‘hunting’ for its food. This helps prevent an endless list of unwanted behaviors, such as inappropriate chewing and excessive barking.”

Laura Nativo

Laura Nativo starred in CBS’s Greatest American Dog, hosted the Game Show Network’s Dog Park Superstars, serves as creative director of Petsami, is a certified APDT dog trainer, and accompanies me on vigorous “business hikes” with our dogs (we are “so LA”).

“As soon as your veterinarian gives you the go-ahead, introduce your puppy to as many new environments, people, and other pets as possible. Many common behavioral issues like excessive barking, resource guarding, and fear and leash aggression stem from missed opportunities for puppy socialization. Puppies that are well-socialized and trained in a variety of settings have the best chance of growing into happy, confident and well-mannered adults. Make it a priority to socialize your dog every day, whether on a walk, hike, at the dog park, the local coffee shop, or in a puppy kindergarten class! Your dog will love it, and so will you!”

Greg Kleva

As the authoritative opinions of women seemingly dominate the animal-care fields, I’m compelled to share tips from “one of the guys.” Greg Kleva is the host of It’s A Dog’s Life on the Martha Stewart Radio Blog, a Pet Travel Safety Ambassador for Toyota’s Pet Expert Team (P.E.T.), and a Grand Master Trainer forBark Busters (NJ).

“Reduce your puppy’s boredom by providing plenty of mental stimulation. Simple training exercises and education is very tiring for a puppy’s brain. Make games out of training … keep session short and light, but test your puppy to think, think, think. Try ‘Follow the Leader’ exercises (to reinforce following/walking/heel), ‘Hide-n-Seek’ (to reinforce coming when called), and ‘Sit/Stay’ at feeding time. Be consistent, calm, and never use physical means to correct your dog.”

A big thank you to all of my pet training pals for sharing their informative tips on the emotionally challenging, yet entirely worthwhile undertaking of puppy training.

Puppy Training Tips From 5 Celebrity Pet Training Experts was originally published on PetMD.com

Calming Signals in Dogs and How We Can Use Them

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog Trainingmtest on January 23rd, 2013

by Mary Majchrowski

dog-licking-14202499 calmingWe all know that dogs can’t talk (whether or not we care to admit it is another thing altogether!).  What they do rely on is body language — lots and lots of body language.

While we might approach a stranger and say, “Hey, I’m new here. It’s nice to meet you,” a dog might walk up to another dog in an arc with a slow, circular wagging tail and its ears back and drop into a butt-up, front down stretch. They are both ways to express “I’m friendly and mean no harm.”

What are Dog Calming Signals?

Calming signals are just what they sound like. They are behaviors offered by a dog in an attempt to keep a situation calm. Dog’s calming signals can be both offered and returned. We can help our dogs feel comfortable by learning what their calming signals are and respecting them, and even by responding in kind, repeating their gesture as best we can (tail wagging obviously excluded).

It is essential to understand that context is important. Think of how a person telling another “you fool!” can be issued as an insult or an expression of teasing affection. Context is important, regardless of species. For example, ears held back on a dog’s head can be many things: a calming signal, a sign of fear, or even just the nature of the breed.

You may or may not notice calming signals with your own dog. Unless you recently adopted your dog or have a new puppy, chances are your relationship is fairly established. Your dog may not feel the need to offer these signals on a regular or frequent basis.

Unfortunately we can also extinguish calming signals in our pets, even without intention. If a dog offers calming signals that are repeatedly ignored or corrected, eventually they may stop trying. Think about people — if your partner brought you flowers after a fight and you always responded with snide comments about wasting money or stinking up the house, chances are your partner would stop buying flowers— at least for you! Since we are frequently our dog’s entire world, our response (or lack thereof) to their behavior is critically important.

Calming signals may include:

  • “Look aways” (turning the head to the side, away from the other dog or person)
  • Yawning
  • Sniffing (becoming very interested in not much of anything)
  • Paw raises (raising one of the front paws off the ground)
  • Shake offs (can be a slight shake off or entire body, as if wet)
  • Scratching (like they are itchy – a sudden case of “fleas”)
  • Blinking
  • Lip licking (or nose licking)
  • Tongue flicks
  • Moving in an arc (approaching or leaving in a semi-circle, not a direct path)
  • Sitting or lying down
  • Stretching (particularly into a play bow position, though not quite the same behavior)
  • Making a “soft face” – ears back, soft eyes, etc.

Can I Use Calming Signals with Dogs?

There are a few signals that you may want to try with your dog.* They can help a dog feel more comfortable, and may even be offered back to you. Blinking is pretty universal between species — go for slow, deliberate blinks (not fast fluttering). Lip licking is also simple to duplicate. Again, make it slow and obvious. You can actually lick your lips or even just stick your tongue out a few times. “Look aways” involve turning your head to either side, away from the dog. You may then look back, without making eye contact, then look away again. A paw lift is a little more difficult (largely since we don’t have paws and walk on two legs, not four). But if you are feeling daring you can try it with one arm, holding it as if you were imitating a hurt paw.

You may have figured out now how yawning can be contagious. Offered as a calming signal between dogs, or even from dog to human (and human to dog), a yawn is much more than feeling sleepy. It’s a chance to say “chill out ─ relax” or “I’m a little worried, don’t hurt me.” Body language means a lot to a dog, and understanding calming signals will help you interpret just what they are trying to tell you.

*Calming signals do not make it safe to approach an aggressive dog. When in doubt, keep your distance. If your dog behaves aggressively, seek the assistance of a licensed veterinary behaviorist.

Calming Signals in Dogs and How We Can Use Them was originally published on Pet360.com.

Housebreaking a Puppy

Filed under: Ages & Stages,Dog TrainingDoggySpace on October 11th, 2010

Having a new puppy is fun. Think about all the things you and your puppy can do together. Imagine all the tricks you can teach your puppy. Before you get caught up with the things you want your dog to learn, don’t forget that housebreaking a puppy is one of the most important things you have to do to make your dog adjust effectively to its new environment. There are several ways on housebreaking a puppy. Choose the method that is convenient for you so that dog training is easier on you and your dog. Understanding your puppy and building communication between the two of you are important factors in determining your success of potty training a puppy.

Communication is an essential part of dog training. If you don’t communicate well with your pet, potty training a puppy may be harder for you. Housebreaking a puppy should be started as soon as you bring the puppy to your house. You should start by having a consistent command phrase you can use to mean that your dog needs to relieve himself on the spot where you want him to. A command phrase or word can be anything like “outside”, “go” or “potty time”. The phrase you choose is not very important, what’s important is to use the phrase frequently and assign a consistent meaning to that phrase. You can’t use the word “go” to mean “potty time” today and use it tomorrow to mean “run”. Frequency and consistency in meaning is very important, especially on the first days of dog training.

Understanding your pet’s behavior is also an important part when potty training a puppy. One of the mistakes most pet owners make is to not know the signs their pets do when they need to relieve themselves. You need to know these signs so you can take your puppy out or bring him to the area of the house where you want him to pee before your puppy actually does. Some of the most common signs are walking around in circles, pacing and sniffing.

2 of the most popular method in housebreaking a puppy is crate training and paper training or the use of puppy pads. You need to have time and patience in whatever dog training method you choose. There is no cutting corners to potty training a puppy. When crate training, make sure to use a crate big enough for your puppy to be comfortable in. The principle of crate training is to teach your puppy that the crate is his bed and he should not soil it. Keep him in his crate several hours a day. Let him out when you see signs that he needs to relieve himself. After a meal or a play session, it’s important that you take him out so he can do his thing before you put him back in the crate. Balance the time your puppy is in and out of his crate. A dog that’s put in the crate for a very long time may become destructive and noisy. Let him out several times a day so he can run around the house or play with you.

Paper training is usually used for small dog breeds like a Cocker Spaniel or Chihuahua. Have several layers of newspaper on the area that you want your dog to relieve himself. Every time your puppy relieves himself, throw the top layer of the newspaper. This way, it will be easier for your puppy to smell his way to the spot where he needs to pee or defecate. Other pet owners prefer to use puppy pad for potty training a puppy. With a puppy pad, your dog will just follow the scent of the pad to lead him to your chosen area where you want your dog to relieve himself. Paper training and crate training are just some of the methods you can use in dog training. There are other methods you can try for housebreaking a puppy.

Housebreaking a puppy should not be a hard time for you and your dog. The most important thing you need to know when housebreaking a puppy is to give your dog enough time to adjust and get used to his new routine.

Photo by ★ɱark and article written by Alysson Price

How to Clean Pet Urine and Neutralize Odor

Filed under: Ages & Stages,Dog Behavior,Dog TrainingDoggySpace on July 23rd, 2010

Whether your pet has a problem with indoor accidents or is simply trying to mark his territory, cleaning up pet urine is imperative to preventing recurrences. Your pet enjoys a particularly strong sense of smell and can easily identify areas where it has urinated in the past. If you have other pets, the smell of the urine may cause them to urinate in the same spot – even if they typically only urinate outdoors. Thus, when cleaning up pet stains, you must clean the stain thoroughly enough to neutralize the smell to both humans and animals.

Step One: Blot Away the Urine Stain

As soon as your pet urinates on the floor, blot up as much of the stain as you can with a towel or dishcloth. Terrycloth is perfect for this job. Your goal is to clean away as much of the urine as possible before it has an opportunity to soak into your carpet’s padding and dry there.

After you’ve soaked up as much of the urine as you can with a towel, use a thin, absorbent material, such as a paper towel or napkin, to absorb any remaining pet urine. Place the paper towel or napkin over the stain and press down as hard as you can. You can even stand on the spot to ensure that you’re applying adequate pressure. Do not stop blotting until the spot appears completely dry.

Step Two: Dilute the Remaining Pet Urine

Pour club soda liberally over the pet urine stain, giving it a few seconds to soak in. Club soda dilutes pet urine both beneath your carpet and on the carpet’s surface, making it less likely to give off a noticeable smell. While club soda is ideal for this, you can also use plain water or equal parts water and white vinegar.

After the club soda has a chance to soak into the carpet, blot it away using towels and paper towels in the exact same manner that you cleaned up the initial pet stain.

Step Three: Neutralize Pet Urine Smells

Once you’ve cleaned up the pet stain and diluted the remaining urine within your carpet, you can further combat the smell using baking soda. Pour baking soda over the spot where your pet’s accident occurred. Press the baking soda into the carpet using even pressure. This can be done by stepping on the pile of baking soda several times or placing a heavy object over the spot. Let the baking soda sit on the pet stain for at least one hour before vacuuming it away. The baking soda will pull any moisture you may have missed out of the carpet while also combating the unpleasant odor of pet urine.

Step Four: De-grease the Pet Stain

Even if you begin cleaning your pet’s urine stain as soon as the accident occurs, the ammonia in an animal’s urine gives it a greasy texture that allows it to rapidly adhere to fabrics such as carpeting. The end result is that neutralizing the urine may not remove the stain. Standard carpet cleaning sprays may also be ineffective at preventing a permanent pet urine stain on your carpet. Household degreasers, however, are perfect for this job.

Spray a household degreasing product, such as Greased Lightning, directly onto the pet stain. Use a warm, wet cloth to work the degreaser into the stain, wiping vigorously. Keep a bowl of water next to you throughout the process since you’ll want to rinse the cloth out frequently. If you have concerns about degreaser staining your carpet, test it out on an out of the way area of carpeting before applying it to the pet urine stain.

Step Five: Prevent the Smell of Pet Urine

While club soda and baking soda work wonders for neutralizing pet urine odor, you can opt for additional odor prevention by purchasing one of the many specialty products available for neutralizing the smell of pet urine on carpets. Call your veterinarian for a recommendation before making a purchase, as some products work better than others.

The best cure for pet urine stains is prevention. Consider installing a doggie door or taking your dog for more frequent walks if indoor urination becomes a problem. If you have a cat that urinates on the carpet, clean its litter box more frequently. Your cat’s definition of a full litter box and yours may vary! You can also provide your cat with more than one litter box to encourage it to use the litter box rather than your carpet. Should occasional accidents still occur, however, prompt cleanup ensures that your carpet will remain pristine and pet urine odors don’t become a problem.

Photo by jaimieo

Puppy Socialization

Filed under: Ages & Stages,Dog Life,Dog TrainingDoggySpace on June 10th, 2010

Puppy socialization is the foundation for a lifetime of good dog behavior. A properly socialized puppy will respond to new situations, people, and environments without the fear and aggression that often develops in dogs that are under emotional stress. While the most important period in your puppy’s socialization occurs between 8 and 12 weeks, when the puppy’s mind is going through a fear imprinting stage, good socialization should not end after 12 weeks.

In order to properly socialize your puppy you must make sure to expose him or her to as many healthy new environments and people as you can. Since the point of exposing your puppy is to teach him or her how to handle and react to potentially stressful situations, it is important that you remain in control of the situation, as well as your own reactions and emotions. Even young puppies can sense your emotional responses to stimuli and, like human infants, will react according to the impressions they get from you. Happily greeting strangers as you take your dog for walks, or settling in comfortably with a large group of human friends show your dog how he or she should respond to these new situations as well.

Because of health concerns it may not be safe to socialize your dog through visits to the dog park, or places where other animal’s poop is likely to be found. Instead, substitute controlled play dates with other pups, training and socialization classes, and frequent walks for potentially health-effecting socialization. Taking your pup for frequent car rides and to visit the homes of friends will also help him or her to adapt easier to new environments.

Besides new environments it is essential to familiarize your dog with objects he or she may perceive as threatening or strange. These things may include tall men, hats, umbrellas, loud noises, children, and wheelchairs. Having the individuals possessing potentially frightening characteristics or objects interact positively with your dog, even offering them treats and affection, will help your dog come to love these strange characteristics.

As your puppy grows remember to encourage him or her to enjoy new things, and seek out new experiences and stimuli to expose him or her to. By taking the time to socialize your dog with intention and control you will ensure a happier outlook for your pet and minimize stress and aggressive reactions. Properly socialized puppies often turn into better behaved adult dogs, and will make your dog ownership a joy instead of a headache.

Photo credit manyfires

The Well Socialized Dog

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog Life,Dog TrainingDoggySpace on April 13th, 2010

Some dog experts say that a socializing your dog is just as important as how you feed and shelter him or her. But what does “dog socialization” and being a “well socialized” dog mean, anyways?

Dog socializing is a form of training your dog. When you socialize your dog you teach him or her how to react to external stimuli, from new places, large groups, or an unusual characteristic such as wheelchairs or mustaches on men. While socialization is extremely important during the first year of a puppy’s life, it in no way ends at 12 months of age, and good socialization tactics continue throughout your dog’s lifetime.

While socialization classes can be found, the best kind of socialization training is found in daily life. As you walk your dog, take him or her to the dog park, meet strange people or dogs while on a walk, or host a party, you are providing your dog with the best kind of socialization. But, for socialization to be good and your dog to become “well socialized” you must be in control of the situation, endeavoring to make sure that he or she enjoys the new experience and gets past any initial fearful reactions he or she has, and making sure that your own reactions to the situation show that your are in control, worry free, enjoying yourself, and you feel your pet is safe.

Poorly socialized dogs often react to stimuli by growling, cowering, trying to bite, or other fear-induced behaviors. Not only are these signs that your dog is frightened, but they can be difficult or embarrassing to deal with, or even cause harm. No matter what age your dog is intentional socialization should be as much a part of his or her daily routine as meals and taking walks.

Photo by lleugh

Curing Dog Aggression Through Socialization

Filed under: Dog Behavior,Dog TrainingDoggySpace on February 8th, 2010

Is your dog the type that barks at cars? Does he or she go running when a tall man enters a house, or growl at the mailman? These and other aggressive behaviors often stem from a lack of socialization.

Puppies who are heavily socialized are calmer, friendlier, and have an easier time handling new situations. But dog socialization doesn’t end at 12 months, or when your dog’s completed their first puppy training class. A lack of continual socialization can lead to your dog feeling anxious or frightened in new or unusual situations, and fear is a leading cause of aggression in dogs. If your dog is displaying unexplained aggressive behaviors, or is acting aggressively after a move or change in the social structure of the family, socialization may present a cure.

In order to socialize your dog you will want to pinpoint what he or she is afraid of, and target those areas. If people with glasses give your dog a scare invite some eyeglass sporting friends over. If possible, have them go without their eyeglasses until they have been introduced to the dog. Encouraging good play and treat-giving will help your dog overcome their anxiety and learn that these people are generous and fun to be with. If your dog barks at the mailman, try to introduce your dog to the mail deliverer. Walk your dog daily just so that you and your dog can great the mailman in a friendly manner as you pass each other’s paths.

For a dog suffering from under socialization, or a lapse in socialization, it is important to include him or her in every activity you do outside the home. Car rides, park days, long walks, visiting friends, and even shopping at dog friendly stores can all help expose and cure your dog from socialization related fear and aggression.

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